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俄羅斯生活萬花筒 征服極北

雅庫特的冰雕骨雕及其他財寶

來源： 《透視俄羅斯》
Yakutia (Yakutsk is the capital city of the Sakha Republic, Russia, located about 450 kilometers (280 mi) south of the Arctic Circle) has all the makings of a major tourist destination: hellish cold, warm vodka with frozen hors d’oeuvres, baked horsemeat and plenty of exotic character.
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Ivan Dementievskiy

雅庫特（雅庫茨克是俄羅斯薩哈共和國首都，位於北極圈以南約450公里（280英里）），有著重要旅遊目的地的一切特質：地獄般的嚴寒，溫熱的伏特加配冰凍的開胃小菜，烤馬肉和大量有著異國情調的人物。
Temperatures the second weekend of December in Yakutia are well below -30° Celsius (-22° F), that is, warm. Ordinarily, this time of year, temperatures drop to around -50 C. One can get used to anything. Besides, thermal underwear, a hat, down parka and gloves will not allow you to perish on the frozen streets. Nevertheless, dressing for any venture outside is like dressing for a walk in open space. The cold burns physically wound your face. If you disdain ski pants, the cold, like a living creature, will cling to your legs; your jeans will freeze to your knees.

Ivan Dementievskiy

雅庫特在12月第二個周末的氣溫要遠低於零下30攝氏度（ -22°F），可這已經是暖和的了。通常每年的這個時候，氣溫都會下降到-50℃左右。人是可以適應任何環境的。此外，保暖內衣，帽子，羽絨大衣和手套是不會讓你在冰冷的街上凍死的。不過，為戶外出行準備的著裝，和在太空行走的著裝是一樣的。嚴寒會凍傷你的臉。如果你不屑穿滑雪褲，寒冷就會像活的生物一樣抱住你的腿，你的牛仔褲會凍在你的膝蓋上。
But even if you do wear the ski pants, they won’t do you much good. Meanwhile, local residents are ready to hang out with each other in the freezing cold for hours. Street festivals are a common occurrence, to say nothing of the fact that Yakuts love to spend their leisure time in the open air — hunting, fishing, engaged in street works. All in all, it’s a matter of habit.

Ivan Dementievskiy

可是即使你穿了滑雪褲，作用也不會太大。而當地居民卻能在寒冷的戶外相處幾個小時。街頭藝術節是很普遍的現象，雅庫特人確實喜歡在露天打發他們的休閑時光，例如從事狩獵，捕魚和街頭工作。總而言之，這是他們的習慣。
In December the republic of Yakutia — the largest region in Russia (more that 3 million sq. kilometers, the size of five Frances or one India) and one of the least populous (less than one million inhabitants) — holds a festival called Winter Begins in Yakutia. The festival’s two main events are meetings with Ded Moroz (the Russian Santa Claus) and with Chys Khaan (Yakutia’s folktale hero responsible for the cold) and the Stroganina Festival.

Ivan Dementievskiy

在12月時，雅庫特共和國作為俄羅斯面積最大（面積300萬平方管理，相當於5個法國或印度的國土面積），人口最少的地區（不到一百萬居民），會有一個節日，名叫冬天在雅庫特開始。節日的兩個主要活動分別是：與戴德·莫羅茲（俄羅斯的聖誕老人）和奇斯汗見面（雅庫特的民間傳說中造成寒冷的英雄）和生魚片節。
Chys Khaan lives in a cave dug into the permafrost where it is always -7° C, both winter and summer. Inside there are permanent ices sculptures, including copies of the Venus de Milo, Picasso’s “Guernica” and works by the ingenious Buryat artist Dasha Namdakov.

Ivan Dementievskiy

奇斯汗生活在永凍土上挖成的一個山洞里，那里一年四季的溫度始終保持在-7 °C。里面有永久保存的冰雕，包括米洛的維納斯，畢加索的“格爾尼卡”和天才的布里亞特藝術家達沙·納姆達科夫（ Dasha Namdakov ）作品的冰雕複制品。
There’s also an ice bar. The ice bar is an attraction that was conceived right here, although it does exist in several other places, rumor has it, in London and in Moscow. But here it is right in situ. Vodka and champagne are poured into shot glasses and glass flasks carved out of ice. To go with the iced drinks there is stroganina: raw fish that has been frozen right after being pulled out from under the ice and then cut into paper-thin slices with a sharp knife. These frozen slices are then dipped in salt and pepper. Yakuts eat almost no pork and are not overly fond of chicken, but they love venison, cow and horse meat.

Ivan Dementievskiy

那里還有一個冰酒吧。冰吧的構思就是在這里完成的，不過在別的一些地方也確實存在，據說倫敦和莫斯科都有。不過這里的冰吧才是原汁原味的。伏特加和香檳會被倒入用冰雕成的酒杯和玻璃瓶。配冰鎮飲料的有生魚片：魚從冰下被釣上來就已經凍住了，然後用鋒利的刀切成紙一樣薄的薄片。然後在冰凍的生魚片上灑一些鹽和胡椒。雅庫特人幾乎不吃豬肉，不是太喜歡吃雞肉，不過他們愛吃鹿肉、牛肉和馬肉。
The Stroganina Festival kicks off with a preliminary contest among teams who present towers and other constructions made out of stroganina to a panel of judges. This year the most beautiful composition was of a mammoth — an unofficial symbol of the region.

Ivan Dementievskiy

生魚片節的開幕活動是一項比賽，參賽隊要將生魚片做成塔或其他建築，供評委品評。今年最美麗的作品是一只猛獁象 - 它是該地區非官方的象征物。
Yakuts sculptors have been doing bone carving even before the first contact Western world. Today, Yakuts continue to carve pieces entirely by hand. Although, power tools are occasionally used, most of the artists prefer to use an axe and file, so that gives them more control over the bone. The final stage of carving is polishing, which is done with several grades of waterproof sandpaper, and hours and hours of rubbing. The most common material is caribou antlers, ivory from marine mammals, and the bone of various animals.

Ivan Dementievskiy

雅庫特雕塑家早在在第一次接觸西方世界之前就一直在做骨雕。如今的雅庫特仍在完全用手工雕刻骨件。雖然偶爾也會使用電動工具，大多數藝術家還是更喜歡使用斧頭和銼刀，讓他們在制作骨雕是能有更好的控制力。雕刻的最後一個工序是拋光，要用好幾種粗細度的防水砂紙，經過幾個小時的打磨才能完成。骨雕最常見的材料是馴鹿角，海象的象牙，以及各種動物的骨骼。
Everyone is wearing traditional costumes. Beautiful woman are draped in silver. On festival days Yakut women decorate themselves with all manner of adornments which in sum may weigh up to 17 kg (7.5 lbs).

Ivan Dementievskiy

每個人都穿著傳統服裝，美麗的女人則戴著銀飾。在節日期間，雅庫特婦女會用各種飾物裝飾自己，總重可達17公斤（ 7.5磅）。
In everyday life, incidentally, there is at least one element of traditional dress which Yakut men and women always wear: high fur boots made out of deerskin, sometimes decorated with beads. They are expensive and very, very warm.

Ivan Dementievskiy

順便說一下，在日常生活中，至少有一種傳統服飾是雅庫特的男女老幼始終要穿的：用鹿皮高制成的高筒皮毛靴子，有時還會綴上珠子做裝飾。這種靴子造價昂貴，不過非常非常保暖。
The desire of the local authorities to turn the republic of Yakutia into a tourist destination has met with different reactions: the image of savages in deerskins, dances and stroganina, guttural singing and shaggy horses is all very well, of course, but in Yakutia there are also research institutes, including the Institute of Permafrost, Russia’s northernmost university, complex production lines, oil, gas, diamonds, gold and uranium.

Ivan Dementievskiy

地方政府想把雅庫特共和國變成為旅遊目的地的想法得到了不同的回應：身披鹿皮的野人形象；舞蹈和生魚片，原生態歌唱；還有毛茸茸的馬當然都非常好，可是在雅庫特地區還有科研院所，包括永凍土研究所，俄羅斯最北端的大學，以及生產石油，天然氣，鉆石，黃金和鈾的各種工業設施。
In the capital city of Yakutsk high-rise buildings are being built on the permafrost — in place of a foundation, posts are hammered in. Yakutsk boasts one of Russia’s best programs to support the disabled: even low-rise buildings have elevators for wheelchairs, and almost all public buildings are equipped with ramps. Indeed, Yakutsk is an absolutely civilized city. Meanwhile the authorities are presenting it as though it were a remote village inhabited by nomadic hunters and gatherers.

Ivan Dementievskiy

在首都雅庫茨克，在永凍土上正在修建高層建築。地基是將樁柱打入地下完成的。雅庫茨克有俄羅斯最好的殘疾人支持計劃，即使是低層建築內也有供輪椅使用的電梯，而且幾乎所有的公共建築物都配備了坡道。雅庫茨克確實是個文明城市。於此同時，政府對它的宣傳就好像它是以遊牧狩獵者和采集者生活的偏遠村莊。
The logic of the local authorities is entirely transparent. Few people like industrial tourism, and even those few enthusiasts would never be allowed to see a uranium mine or a diamond factory. But many people like exotica, national traditions, shaman spirituality and stroganina with vodka. They are the ones who will come to Yakutia as tourists. In any case, that is what the government of this marvelous republic is hoping.

Ivan Dementievskiy

地方政府的邏輯是完全透明的。幾乎沒有人喜歡工業旅遊項目，即使是那些少數愛好者也根本得不到允許，去餐館鈾礦或鉆石工廠。但是很多人都喜歡異國情調，民族傳統，薩滿教，和配伏特加酒的生魚片。這些才是遊客們會來雅庫特的原因。不管怎麽說，這個神奇的共和國的政府是這麽希望的。
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2013年2月1日
標簽: 俄中旅遊、 民族、 傳統、 過年、 雅庫特、 冬季

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